After visiting Nuuk and crusing north up the coast of jap Greenland, we lastly reached Qeqertarsuaq in Disko Bay. It’s one of many iconic areas to go to in Greenland, and for good purpose.
For a few years, Disko Bay has been the de rigour spot for many visits to Greenland, and it doesn’t disappoint.
The entire bay was explored by Norse populations centuries in the past, and it’s simply as lovely because it was centuries in the past—effectively, at the least I think about it’s.
After an early night time following our journey to discover Nuuk, we arrived shiny and early at Qeqertarsuaq, a vibrant little city that just a few hundred folks name house. It’s proper on the westerly fringes of Disko Island, and our captain noticed a chance to anchor up and get us to shore through the zodiacs.
We have been so excited, particularly as we arrived on the morning time. Really, that’s a lie. We arrived as we awoke at 8 a.m. The solar started showing round 2 a.m. Ha!
Anyway, with out getting slowed down with the small print, we rapidly headed to Qeqertarsuaq through the zodiacs, which took about 4 minutes from the anchor place of Ocean Albatros.
After setting foot on Disko Island, we took the chance to discover the city and the broader shoreline to the west. We had thought of becoming a member of one of many organised excursions that Albatros Expeditions organises on the bottom, however we actually wished to move off on our personal schedule.
By the best way, Qeqertarsuaq is so charming. Sure, it’s small, and there are only a few bars, eating places, and retailers, however what it lacks in facilities, it makes up for with character. It’s completely vibrant and delightful, and it’s the right spot to see the icebergs that float by from Disko Bay.
After all, we headed to a few of Qeqertarsuaq’s most iconic websites. We explored the enduring church, visited the lodge for a espresso and stopped off on the Qeqertarsuaq Museum. It’s very small (it is going to take round 10 minutes to stroll round), however so beautiful and effectively price popping in while you’re in Qeqertarsuaq.
Afterwards, we made our manner in direction of the whale-watching hut that’s a couple of 30-minute stroll from the harbour jetty.
Alongside the best way, we noticed probably the most beautiful huskies. Nonetheless, as with most canines in Greenland, they’re classed as ‘working canines’ and aren’t domesticated in the identical manner you is perhaps used to at house.
That’s to not say they’re aggressive or ill-tempered, however they’re working canines and ought to be revered as such. Because of this, we selected to not pet or overly work together with them.
The expedition crew onboard Ocean Albatros additionally suggested this. Nonetheless, the huskies have been actually excited to see us, and it was such a beautiful welcome to Qeqertarsuaq.
As we strolled, or ought to I say tracked, throughout the Arctic rocks, we lastly made it to the whale-watching hut. It’s completely located for, you guessed it, whale watching.
We stayed right here for round an hour, and we noticed no whales.
We tried, we watched for each spurt of air, ripple and motion within the sea; to no avail. Although, we’re form of used to it by now – we’ve solely not too long ago been fortunate sufficient to see whales while travelling in Iceland and Alaska.
Though we would not have seen whales in Qeqertarsuaq, we did get to see heaps of icebergs passing Qeqertarsuaq. This was removed from a disappointment as, over time, we’ve come to grasp which you can by no means actually assure recognizing a whale.
Qeqertarsuaq suprised me. I’d by no means heard of the small city earlier than planning our journey to Greenland; but it surely was truthfully a spotlight – and Disko Island, too. Plus, it was our first cease north of the Arctic Circle in Greenland, which made it additional particular.
After heading again to Ocean Albatros, grabbing a light-weight lunch… heck, who am I kidding? I ruined that buffet – for some purpose, the chilly air makes me additional hungry. Effectively, that’s my excuse, and I received’t be informed in another way.
Earlier than lengthy, the anchor of Ocean Albatros was raised, and we began our expedition by means of Disko Bay itself. This space has an extended historical past of holiday makers, together with Innuit and Norse explorers… and us, in fact! As we sailed by means of Disko Bay, we began to actually perceive what made this space so interesting to early explorers.
We sailed slowly by means of the bay, weaving between colossal icebergs and the huge mountain ranges that line the shore of Disko Bay itself.
It’s idyllic, and I don’t say that evenly. We spent hours having fun with the view earlier than lastly reaching the world round Oqaatsut, the place we meandered by means of the glacial channels in direction of our subsequent cease: Eqip Sermia.
First, Eqip Sermia isn’t a city; it’s a glacial space with what can solely be described as an extremely big colossal ‘hanging glacier’. Actually, images and movies don’t do Eqip Sermia justice. It’s completely large.
Ocean Albatros anchored round 3-4 kilometres from the glacier itself, and inside no time in any respect, we boarded one of many zodiacs to get a better look.
We weaved our manner by means of the slush and growlers (like small icebergs) and received ever nearer to the glacier itself. Naturally, the expedition staff from Albatros left a secure hole.
It’s so tempting to need to get nearer to the glacier, and I’ve to confess I used to be like, ‘Can we go nearer to the motion?’ however there’s a superb purpose you keep far again.
The wall of ice consistently strikes and calves proper into Disko Bay itself, inflicting big chunks of the glacier to crash into Disko Bay with none warning.
We noticed this occur about 5 occasions throughout our few hours right here, and the crashing sound, waves, and destruction have been so colossal. It’s extremely lovely to see, however it’s also a really harmful atmosphere that should at all times be handled with respect.
After our zodiac journey, we headed again onboard Ocean Albatros and straight to dinner on the highest deck. With the solar shining, the wonderful catering staff onboard hosted a BBQ overlooking Eqip Sermia. It was a feast (each for our eyes and tummies).
We spent the subsequent few hours chatting with fellow passengers and the chief crew whereas watching Eqip Sermia calve in real-time. The entire expertise was mind-blowing and one which I actually received’t neglect.
By the point we’d end nattering (yeah, we speak lots), Ocean Albatros had risen in anchor, and we began our journey again by means of the glacial valley in direction of our subsequent cease: Ilulissat.
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